Mountain Air

West Jefferson strikes the perfect balance between relaxed charm and outdoor adventure

Seen from Mount Jefferson, West Jefferson is aglow with autumn colors.
Seen from Mount Jefferson, West Jefferson is aglow with autumn colors.
OH Restaurant’s Rooftop Bar
OH Restaurant’s Rooftop Bar
Mount Jefferson State Natural Area
Mount Jefferson State Natural Area
The central hallway at the West Jefferson Hotel showcases original works by local artists. The hotel reopened last year after a five-year renovation.
The central hallway at the West Jefferson Hotel showcases original works by local artists. The hotel reopened last year after a five-year renovation.
Sculptures at Ashe County Cheese
Sculptures at Ashe County Cheese
Luther Rock overlook at Mount Jefferson State Natural Area
Luther Rock overlook at Mount Jefferson State Natural Area
Old Barn Winery
Old Barn Winery
Old Barn Winery Trolley
Old Barn Winery Trolley

Vibrant towns, mountain landscapes, cascading waterfalls, and outdoor exploration — you can find it all in the North Carolina High Country. Destinations such as Asheville, Boone, and Blowing Rock often headline a visit to the Blue Ridge Mountains, but there’s a quieter alternative overflowing with small-town charm that deserves a place in the spotlight.

The town of West Jefferson is “a breath of fresh air,” says Mark Beck. “You come up here, and it doesn’t move fast, but that doesn’t mean it’s slow. It’s a getaway.”

“It’s a really beautiful area. The people are old Appalachian people. They are local to the area going back several generations, and they are friendly, fun people.”

Mark serves on the West Jefferson Tourism Development Authority board and owns the West Jefferson Hotel, recently reopened after a five-year renovation.

New River State Park, Elk Shoals Access, West Jefferson

Mark isn’t an NC native, but he fell for West Jefferson’s quaint downtown full of local shops, rolling green hills fit for gardening (he’s an avid hobbyist), and rich High Country history.

“The hotel started as a railroad hotel. West Jefferson is a railroad town,” he explains.

From its beginnings in 1917, the West Jefferson Hotel was a “marvel” for the area, featuring hot and cold running water, electric lights, and a bathtub in every room. Quite grand for a remote mountain area harvested for timber.

After decades as the town’s hub, waning railroad trade and changing leadership forced a period of decline, until Mark purchased the hotel in 2019 to restore the landmark property to its original grandeur.

Salvaging and repurposing as much as possible, Mark celebrated the hotel’s history, while recreating it as a modern, luxury getaway.

“The whole building is full of old-growth timber. The original doors have been repurposed as the bathroom doors.”

Furniture from the original hotel remains, reupholstered in blue or green fabrics. Early electric lighting, circa the early 1900s, overhangs the hallways, and a restored antique grand piano anchors the parlor.

Furniture, porcelain china, and antique décor gifted by area families add to the hotel’s local lore.

“They have all these beautiful pieces of furniture, often if a parent is moving out of a house or something. It’s furniture that’s too nice to give to Goodwill, but (the owners) want its legacy to continue on somewhere else with a little bit of meaning.”

Despite the attention to history, the hotel feels entirely new, with shimmery gold wallpaper, warm wood tones, and original artwork on every wall — a style Mark calls maximalism.

“It uses aggressive colors and patterns that you don’t think should work, but when you put it together, somehow, it’s thrilling, but not overwhelming.”

Works by well-known local artists such as Tony Griffin, Richard Fennell, Stephen Shoemaker, and Florence Thomas line the parlor and central hallway, from which all 17 guest rooms stem.

“The hotel is highly social,” Mark says. “Hotels are becoming less personal all the time. We decided that we’re a small hotel, and to be distinct, we’re going to be high touch, meaning highly social. Anything a guest wants, we get it for them.”

There are fresh-baked cookies at reception, truffles to welcome guests in their rooms, and baskets of blankets for cool evenings on the two-story porch.

“The High Country is known for two-story porches. If you drive around, you’ll see old farmhouses; they often feature a two-story porch up here. And this particular porch is probably the best of the whole bunch.”

Centrally located in the middle of downtown, the West Jefferson Hotel supplies the perfect home base for exploring the area’s charms. Restaurants, shops, and a park are mere steps from the hotel’s front door, with even more to explore a short drive away.

westjeffersonhotel.com

Eat & Drink

OH Restaurant

OH Restaurant & Bar

On the ground floor of the West Jefferson Hotel, the OH Restaurant & Bar dishes up casual and fine dining Appalachian-centric menus with a focus on local “soul food” traditions, says executive chef Trent Pruitt, a native of the area.

“My menu is kind of different than the other restaurants around here. I wanted to make it unique in some way.”

The Oh, Good Gravy entrée, a riff on country fried steak, stands out as one of Trent’s favorites.

“It’s like country fried chicken, basically, but we make our own chicken gravy; we make our own stock. And then we use a local chestnut mushroom.”

Be sure to make a reservation to enjoy the fine-dining menu, a fusion of local inspiration and global creativity dreamed up by Trent.

westjeffersonhotel.com/oh-restaurant

Havana Café

Havana Café

Situated on “the Backstreet,” which runs parallel to the downtown district’s main thoroughfare, Jefferson Ave, Havana Café remains a favorite lunch destination among locals and visitors for its authentic and fresh Cuban cuisine. Traditional classics such as a Cuban sandwich, or daily specials like Ropa Vieja, come with fries, rice and beans, or caramelized plantains.

New River Brewing Smokehouse & Eatery

Wings, burgers, mac & cheese bowls, and one of the best soft pretzels around pair perfectly with New River’s own craft beers, including Farmhouse Belgian Ale, which won a NC Brewers Cup Medal in 2018.

Down the street, a second taproom features a beer garden with a limited food menu and a chill, dog-friendly atmosphere.

newriverbrewing.beer

Third Day Kitchen

For breakfast and lunch with a view that’s well worth the short trip outside downtown, venture to Third Day Kitchen (previously Oldhouse Goods) and be rewarded with hearty and tasty brunch, sandwich, salad, and soup offerings. Sweet treats include coffee, smoothies, and ice cream. On sunny days, patio dining shows off a beautiful view of West Jefferson’s signature rolling mountain landscape.

Be sure to include a visit to the adjacent Third Day Market to browse home décor, jewelry, clothing, gifts, Amish furniture, and seasonal greenhouses.

thirddaymarket.com

Third Day Kitchen

Shop

Ashe County Cheese

Three sculptural cows herald your arrival at Ashe County Cheese, North Carolina’s oldest cheese plant and one of West Jefferson’s top attractions. Watch cheesemaking in progress from the viewing area, then cross the street to the retail shop filled with gourmet goodies.

Browse cheese bricks — favorites include Hickory Smoked Mountain Cheddar, Jack & Dill Monterey Jack, and 7-Year-Old Super Sharp Cheddar — spreads, and curds aplenty, plus jams, jellies, salsas, pickled vegetables, bulk candy, and fresh-made fudge.

When the cravings hit, order from the Ashe County Cheese food truck. Fried cheese curds, grilled bologna and cheese sandwiches, and loaded pork belly fries represent only a few of the cheesy offerings.

ashecountycheese.com

Ashe County Cheese

Bull’s Boots and Western Wear

A downtown mainstay since 2021, Bull’s Boots lives up to its name. Western-style boots — embroidered, embellished, colorful, and classic — line the shop’s walls from floor to ceiling. You’ll also find apparel, outerwear, hats, and accessories for outdoor adventures. Upstairs, a custom hat bar awaits your creative whim.

Bull’s Boots and Western Wear

“You can add ribbon or branding. We can reshape hats,” says Jasper Brannan, an employee at Bull’s Boots and West Jefferson native. “It’s a typical hat bar, but there are not many on the East Coast.”

“We get a lot of people from different rodeos all over the state and into Tennessee. And some people just want to get a hat made for their trip to Ashe County.”

bullsboots.com

The Marketplace at Curiosity

Explore a variety of stalls with locally made goods, boutique clothing, original art, and home décor, supporting West Jefferson small business owners along the way. The hunt is on to find vintage treasures and unique gifts.

Facebook: @curiositync
Instagram: @the_marketplace_at_curiosity

Explore

Mount Jefferson State Natural Area

Take in gorgeous Blue Ridge Mountain vistas, from lookout points accessible by car to hiking trails that wind through the park’s terrain. The 1.1-mile Rhododendron Trail rewards hikers with great views at the Luther Rock outcropping. A picnic shelter near the parking area offers a respite for refueling. Not a hiker? Stop at the Jefferson Overlook along the park’s main road for views of downtown and the surrounding mountains.

ncparks.gov/state-parks/mount-jefferson-state-natural-area

St. Mary’s Episcopal Church

From the outside, this quaint, unassuming house of worship gives few indications that it is one of the most-visited attractions in Ashe County. Inside, the chancel is adorned with a series of three fresco paintings by renowned artist Ben Long: Mary Great with Child, John the Baptist and The Mystery of Faith. Ben learned the technique — the same one used by Michelangelo in the Sistine Chapel — as an apprentice in Florence. The church’s doors remain unlocked around the clock for visitors to witness the remarkable works. Long also painted The Last Supper fresco inside Holy Trinity Church in nearby Glendale Springs.

holycommunionashe.org

St. Mary’s Episcopal Church

Old Barn Winery

Spend a relaxing afternoon in the green meadows of Old Barn Winery sampling Blue Ridge Mountain–grown wines produced by the Sexton family. Try each variety (white, red, sweet, and seasonal specialties) with a wine tasting flight. Light snacks, including Ashe County cheeses, can be purchased, or bring your own picnic. Plan to stay awhile listening to live music, playing cards or games, and savoring the views of the Frosty’s Choose & Cut Christmas tree farm on the property.

On Fridays and Saturdays, hop on the free trolley that runs between downtown West Jefferson and the Old Barn Winery.

oldbarnwinery.com

Old Barn Winery

Seasonal Fun

The New River

Make sure a float down the New River tops your itinerary for a visit during the summer months. Zaloo’s Canoes in Jefferson offers tubing, kayaking, and canoeing trips with shuttle service and gear rental. The float season typically begins in early May and lasts through mid-September. The river’s gentle flow welcomes many ages and abilities — pets too!

zaloos.com

Ashe County Farmers Market

On Saturdays from April through October, visit the farmers market on Backstreet to shop farm-fresh plants and produce, handmade wares, and mountain-town charm. The market operates from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Special holiday markets occur in November and early December.

ashefarmersmarket.com

Ashe County Farmers Market

Ashe County Corn Maze

Fall fun, pumpkins galore, tractor hayrides, and a 4-acre corn maze delight families during weekends in September and October at the Ashe County Corn Maze. At dusk, ghouls and thrills take over as the maze transforms into the Scarecrows Nightmare Haunted Corn Field — visit if you dare.

ashecornmaze.com

Christmas Tree Farms

Fields of Fraser fir trees blanket the landscape in and around West Jefferson, making the town a popular destination for choose-and-cut outings during November and December. Consider Frosty’s Choose and Cut, Long’s Tree Farm, or Cardinal Tree Farms and begin a new holiday tradition.

gofrostys.com
longstreefarm.com
cardinaltreefarm.com

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