Years ago, Chef Coleen Speaks had reached a crossroads in her life that led her to deciding whether her next move was going to take her to Portland or Raleigh. Ultimately, she decided to migrate to North Carolina’s capital because she had an opportunity to bring something to a city where she thought “there were no cool things.”
After years building and running her successful PoshNosh catering company, she opened Hummingbird in a redeveloped grocery distribution warehouse named Dock 1053 in 2017. At the time, the neighborhood had more industrial warehouses than restaurants. But Chef Speaks saw potential in the warehouse’s former trucker bathrooms and set about bringing her long-sought-after restaurant to life.
The work that Speaks and her team did to meticulously preserve the character of the space is immediately evident when entering the cozy confines of the bar. Original pieces of the warehouse such as green tinted tiles, upcycled light shades, and a washroom door provide diners a window into the building’s past life. Hummingbird’s industrial aesthetic is balanced by its eclectic collection of portrait paintings and vibrant accent pieces. “It’s the same vibe as my house,” mentioned Speaks — a vibe that keeps your attention at every turn.
Speaks originally envisioned opening a simpler cocktail bar rather than a full-scale restaurant — a destination for folks to grab a tasty drink accompanied by some delightful small plates. The chargrilled oysters, which have been featured on Hummingbird’s menu since the beginning, are the archetype of her initial vision. Kissed with char, the Core Sound oysters stand up in a flavorful pool of butter, lemon, garlic, parmesan, cayenne, and herbs.
The dish pairs perfectly with Hummingbird’s seasonally focused cocktail program. Refreshing cocktails like the Paloma — a tequila drink made with grapefruit, lime, and agave — highlight the bar’s house-made syrups and purees.
Chef and owner Coleen Speaks created a unique vibe at Hummingbird by contrasting its original industrial aesthetic with eclectic paintings and accents.
Before long, Chef Speaks realized diners wanted more than her small-plate offerings. As a proponent of being flexible while running a restaurant, Speaks pivoted by introducing bigger portioned entrees.
The Peacemaker Po’boy alludes to the chef ’s years in New Orleans, where she cooked in kitchens such as famed television chef Emeril Lagasse’s NOLA restaurant. The hefty sandwich is pure Louisiana, stuffing a generous amount of cornmeal fried shrimp and oysters inside. The aroma of the accompanying Crystal hot sauce permeates the air even before you take a bite.
While some of the dishes on the menu reflect Speaks’ past, Hummingbird’s curry owes its presence to the revolt her diners threaten whenever she mentions retiring the dish. Their enthusiasm comes with good reason: The vegetarian rendition of yellow curry excels with its tender seasonal vegetables in a delightfully smooth gravy that delivers all the expected flavor of a curry but without the assertiveness.
Just as the menu extended beyond small plates, Hummingbird’s dining space expands outside its intimate dining room. Its all-season patio, overlooking the intersection of Atlantic and Whitaker Road, has established itself as a destination spot. Dining there feels like having a front-row seat to Raleigh’s epicenter of growth.
Hummingbird’s cocktail menu focuses on seasonal flavors and uses house-made syrups and purees.
The area surrounding Dock 1053 has been transformed in recent years by the City of Oaks’ rush for new development, a stark contrast from when Hummingbird first opened. The backdrop provides a perfect setting for Hummingbird’s acclaimed brunch service.
Soak in the Carolina weather and sip on an easy-drinking cocktail like the hibiscus-infused vodka and lime Hummingbird Fizz while you peruse the brunch menu that breaks away from tradition. Hummingbird gives a Nordic twist to the brunch mainstay bagel and lox, pairing toast from nationally recognized Boulted Bread with house-cured salmon, caper-chive cream cheese, and pickled red onions.
Diners looking to start their weekend mornings with a hearty meal — or those trying to recover from the night before — will appreciate the brunch burger. Topping house ground sirloin and chuck with pimento cheese, a fried green tomato, and a sunny side egg, the dish is like serving all the essence of Southern cuisine in a bun.
Chef Speaks originally arrived in Raleigh with the desire to bring cool stuff to the city. She continues to deliver on that goal through Hummingbird’s sister space, music lounge Whitaker and Atlantic.
Hummingbird is open for dinner Wednesday through Sunday and brunch on Saturday and Sunday.
- Out & About in Wake County: September / October 2023
- The Rise of Live, Work, Play
- Something Worth Reading
- Small Business Spotlight: The ZEN Succulent
- Garden Adventurer: Beyond Purple: The Other Beautyberries
- Unleashing Comfort
- The Pet Parade 2023
- Less is More
- On Trend: Hair Extensions
- Erica Chats: Finally Feeling Fall
- Pay it Forward: SAFEchild
- Hummingbird
- Celebrated Spirits: Easy Peasy, Lemon Squeezy
- Celebrated Spirits: Unicycle Pale Ale
