Journey to where North Dawson Street ends in downtown Raleigh, across a set of retired train tracks, and you’ll find Mulino Italian Kitchen & Bar. Serving guests since 2017, the restaurant serves freshly made pasta, pizza, and other Italian classics.
However, over a hundred years of history accompany Mulino’s location, a former industrial textile mill built in 1900.
If Walls Could Talk
Founded in 1903, Melrose Textile Mill originally produced ribbed underwear. Eventually production expanded to include bathing suits, which were made available to rent at the Pullen Park Pool for 35 cents a day.
The mill shut down in 1930, succumbing to the impact of the Black Tuesday stock market crash of the prior year. The space sat mostly untouched during the following decades, aside from a few temporary residents like a motor supply warehouse, sheet metal shop, or roofing company.
A.G. Zalal purchased the building in 1980, breathing new life into it by kicking off a series of extensive renovations. According to Zalal’s daughter, Brenshnaa Zalal Martin, “He rehabbed the building — new everything. There was years and years and years of pigeon poop covering the mill.”
The Next Chapter
The historic mill caught the eye of Samad Hachby, who formerly owned nearby Mosaic Wine Bar in Glenwood South. Enchanted by the space’s historic aura, Hachby recognized the possibility to create something special within the brick walls.
According to Hachby, “The space had this old-world vibe — brick, heights, and a unique look that called for a Mediterranean-style restaurant.”
Channeling inspiration from his native Casablanca, Hachby began additional renovations in 2009 to create his Moroccan restaurant, Babylon.
Mulino’s dining room features the original brick of Melrose Knitting Mill.
“The building was a dark shell with no utilities,” he recalls. “We had to reimagine everything and convince many naysayers about the location. At that time, we were a hidden oasis.”
The two and a half years of renovation resulted in a space that leans into its historic charms while providing a backdrop to highlight Hachby’s extravagant additions, such as a hand-painted tile roof in what is now known as the Palace Room.
One of Hachby’s marquee additions is the reflecting pool that welcomes guests as they enter the restaurant’s courtyard.
“The pool brought that drama to the forefront to open it to the guests to enjoy,” says Hachby.
Even a decade later, Hachby is still making renovations to the space. This summer, he added a fully equipped outdoor bar area that will host wine cocktail parties and private events.
Becoming Mulino
Spurred by his admiration of Italy, Hachby announced in 2017 that he planned to transform Babylon into Mulino Italian Kitchen & Bar. The new name pays homage to the restaurant’s home, as mulino means mill in Italian.
Pastas are a point of pride on the Mulino menu, with dough being made in-house daily using flour from Lindley Mills in Graham, North Carolina, and organic eggs. Dishes like the spinach ravioli, lasagna, and gnocchi showcase skillfulliy prepared classic Italian dishes.
When asked what dishes truly encapsulate Mulino’s menu, Hachby refers to the Gnocchi al Tartufo. “It’s pillowy, delicate, and a magic combination of the 36-month-old Parmigiano with the truffles. Buonissimo!”
Moroccan influences can still be found in the menu, as seen in the lamb shank, which had been a popular dish back in the Babylon days.
Martin, who grew up at the mill while it was operating as an industrial building, knows that her father A.G. was proud of what he and Hachby were able to turn the mill into today.
“It’s astonishing to sit at Mulino and see people all dressed up coming towards this building after years of it just being men in roofing and sheeting metal business,” she says. “I know my dad was not only very proud of the vision that brought the building back to life but proud of Samad for what he did in the place.”
mulinoraleigh.com
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Looks Amazing 😍 Can’t wait to try it!